My wife bought me a surf board on my birthday.
What on earth was she thinking?
I can’t surf.
Then I remembered a line from ‘Apocalypse Now’…
“Are we gunna fight or are we gunna surf?”
So I graciously accepted the gift and have been trying to learn since.
Sheesh… it ain’t easy.
Last week we took a vacation trip to Rhode Island to see some old friends.
Well, they aren’t old, it’s just been a long time since we saw them last.
Anyway, we took two days of the 5 and went to the beach – Narragansett Beach.
Awesome waves DUDE!
The typical set was 4 or 5 four foot waves followed by 2 or 3 eight footers!
The bigger ones kick our butts, but we rode the little ones… totally fun.
My 14 year old son is a natural and catches nearly every wave he tries for.. me on the other hand am still playing a balancing game on the board!
I ate more sand in those 2 days than I did in a week of SEAL Training.
I think the SEAL TEAM should teach guys to surf.
I really do.
Surf On.
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1 comment:
I tried surfing in Florida back before I got married. It did not take me more than one wave to figure out why surffers often have a broken nose. The first wave I tried to paddel through, pushed the front of the board back at me and hit me in the face. The next thing I soon learned was why it is best to keep your shirt on when surffing.
Maybe it is a good thing that Florida didn't have waves that large. :)
-Dan.
(visit me at www.torchseven.blogspot.com )
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